Sustainable Solutions

Hello from the Lehigh Valley!
What a winter it’s been. I hope you and your family made it through that last storm safely.
I want to apologize for the radio silence recently. We have been fortunate to have an incredibly busy winter season at Ruggiero Landscaping, and I’ve been heavily focused on keeping our field operations running smoothly.
But in between storms, I’ve been doing some deep reading.
I’m actually writing this right before heading out the door. Tomorrow is my 45th birthday, and I am celebrating by taking my fiancée, Danielle, out for a long morning hike. For me, there is no better way to recharge than getting off the pavement and stepping into a living, breathing ecosystem. Out in the woods, you really see how nature is supposed to work. Nothing is isolated. Everything is connected, communicating, and sharing resources.
That exact concept is what I want to share with you today. I wrote this week's article because the emerging science of what is happening directly beneath the soil in our own backyards is just too interesting not to share.
I want to be clear: I’m not sharing this to convince you to abandon your traditional landscaping tomorrow. I know that for many homeowners and commercial property managers, shifting to chemical-free methods feels like a risk. I view this as a process.
My goal is simply to find the best tools for the job. Right now, this research is changing how I think about vegetable gardens and food production zones—places where we can easily switch to natural inputs immediately. As I learn more, I am actively finding ways to bring these benefits to our ornamental landscapes and lawns, too.
Spring is officially here, and my team is gearing up. Between now and April 10th, we are opening up a limited number of spots for our Premium Property Restoration Programs. Whether you have a struggling lawn and want our Spring Intervention (using aeration, premium seed, and soil building instead of heavy chemical pre-emergents), or you have outdated landscaping and want a Rolling Garden Renovation seamlessly integrated into your seasonal maintenance, we are currently taking on new clients who want to step up to a higher, safer standard of care. (Just hit reply to this email or visit our website to get on the schedule).
I hope you find this look "under the hood" of your garden as fascinating as I did.
Enjoy your Sunday, and I hope to see you out in the garden soon.
Best,
Mike Ruggiero
Owner | Ruggiero Landscaping & Sustainable Solutions

The Secret Network Beneath Your Garden
What Science Reveals About Underground Fungi—And How to Stop Accidentally Destroying It
Right now, beneath your feet, something extraordinary is happening. Thread-like fungal filaments—some thinner than a human hair—are creating an underground internet that connects nearly every plant in your yard. Through this network, your established trees are literally feeding your struggling seedlings. Plants are warning each other about pest attacks. Nutrients are flowing through highways you cannot see.
And if you’re gardening the way most Americans garden, you’re probably destroying it.
This isn’t speculation. Over the past two decades, researchers like Dr. Suzanne Simard at the University of British Columbia have documented what Indigenous peoples have known for millennia: forests—and by extension, gardens—are not collections of individual plants competing for resources. They’re communities, connected and communicating through fungal networks that scientists call the “Wood Wide Web.”
The implications for home gardeners are profound.
But here’s the problem:
while the science has been widely publicized, almost no one is explaining what this means for the person with a ¼ - 3 acre lot, a container garden on a balcony, or a community plot in an urban neighborhood.
My goal for today is to change that.
What’s Actually Happening Underground
To understand why this matters, you need a basic picture of how mycorrhizal fungi work. (Mycorrhiza comes from Greek: mykes meaning fungus, rhiza meaning root.)
Here’s the arrangement: Fungal threads called hyphae wrap around or penetrate plant roots. The plant provides sugars—up to 30% of everything it produces through photosynthesis—to the fungus. In exchange, the fungus extends the plant’s effective root system by orders of magnitude, accessing water and nutrients (especially phosphorus) the roots could never reach alone.
But it gets more interesting. Those same fungal threads connect to other plants. And through those connections, resources flow.
Dr. Simard’s research in Pacific Northwest forests documented carbon moving from paper birch trees to Douglas firs growing in shade—the birch essentially subsidizing the fir’s survival. When she killed the birch trees, the connected firs suffered. The network wasn’t just beneficial; it was load-bearing.
Similar patterns appear in agricultural research. Tomato plants connected through mycorrhizal networks show increased resistance to blight when neighboring plants are infected—the healthy plants receive chemical signals through the fungal network and upregulate their defenses before the pathogen arrives.
This isn’t magic. It’s biology. And it’s happening—or trying to happen—in your garden right now.
The Critical Number Most Gardeners Don’t Know
Here’s where the science becomes immediately practical.
Mycorrhizal fungi evolved to help plants access phosphorus in soils where phosphorus is limited. When phosphorus is abundant, plants don’t need the fungi—and the relationship breaks down. The fungi can’t colonize roots that don’t need them.
The threshold: approximately 50 parts per million of available phosphorus in soil.
Above this level, mycorrhizal colonization drops dramatically. The fungi are still present in the soil, but they can’t form the partnerships that create the network.
Why does this matter? Because most synthetic fertilizers—and many organic ones—contain significant phosphorus. The familiar N-P-K numbers on fertilizer bags (10-10-10, for example) tell you the ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. That middle number is phosphorus.
If you’ve been fertilizing regularly for years, your soil phosphorus levels may be well above 50 ppm. Many suburban yards test at 100-200 ppm or higher. At those levels, the mycorrhizal network can’t establish no matter what else you do.
Action step: Get a soil test that includes phosphorus levels. Your state’s Cooperative Extension service offers these for $15-30. If your phosphorus is above 50 ppm, stop adding it. The mycorrhizal network can begin recovering within 1-3 growing seasons as plants draw down excess phosphorus.
The Three Things That Destroy Underground Networks
Beyond excessive phosphorus, three common gardening practices devastate mycorrhizal networks:
1. Tilling and Deep Digging
Fungal hyphae are incredibly fine—much thinner than plant roots. When you till soil, you’re not just “loosening” it. You’re shredding the hyphal network into fragments. It’s like taking scissors to a spider web.
The network can regrow, but it takes time. Annual tilling means the network never fully establishes. This is one reason no-till farming and no-dig gardening produce increasingly good results over time—they allow fungal networks to develop and persist.
What this means for you: If you’re starting new beds, till once if needed to break compaction, then never again. For existing beds, stop tilling. Add compost and organic matter on top and let earthworms and fungi incorporate it. The transition period can be challenging (compaction, weed pressure), but the long-term benefits compound.
2. Fungicides—Including “Organic” Ones
This should be obvious but often isn’t: fungicides kill fungi. Mycorrhizal fungi are fungi.
Even targeted fungicides applied to plant foliage can impact soil fungi. And “organic” fungicides like copper sulfate are particularly persistent in soil, accumulating over seasons of use.
The irony is sharp: we often apply fungicides because plants are struggling with disease. But those disease struggles may partly result from weakened mycorrhizal networks that would otherwise boost plant immunity. We’re treating symptoms while worsening the underlying cause.
What this means for you: Reduce fungicide use to genuine emergencies. Focus instead on cultural practices that reduce disease pressure: adequate spacing for airflow, morning watering so foliage dries quickly, resistant varieties, and—yes—healthy mycorrhizal networks that boost plant immunity.
3. Bare Soil and Missing Hosts
Mycorrhizal fungi need living plant roots to survive. Without host plants, the network dies.
This matters for fallow periods. If you leave garden beds bare over winter, or clear an area completely for renovation, the mycorrhizal network in that zone loses its host plants and degrades. When you replant, you’re starting the network-building process over.
It also matters for plant selection. About 80% of plant species form mycorrhizal partnerships, but the brassica family (cabbage, broccoli, kale, mustard) and the amaranth family (spinach, beets, chard) do not. A bed planted exclusively with these crops won’t maintain a mycorrhizal network for neighboring plants.
What this means for you: Plant cover crops over winter instead of leaving soil bare. When growing brassicas or amaranths, interplant with mycorrhizal-forming species or maintain permanent mycorrhizal hosts (perennial herbs, strawberries, fruit trees) nearby. The network can persist in adjacent areas and recolonize.
How to Support (or Rebuild) the Network
If you’ve been gardening conventionally for years, your mycorrhizal network is probably compromised. Here’s how to rebuild it—with honest acknowledgment of what we do and don’t know.
Stop the Damage First
Before adding anything, stop subtracting. Cease tilling. Reduce or eliminate synthetic fertilizers (especially phosphorus). Minimize fungicide use. Keep living roots in the ground year-round through cover crops, perennials, or overwinter crops.
This alone—simply stopping the destruction—will allow natural recovery. Mycorrhizal spores are present in most soils, and networks can reestablish once conditions allow.
The Case for Inoculation (With Caveats)
Mycorrhizal inoculants—products containing fungal spores—are increasingly available to home gardeners. They come as powders, granules, or liquids that you apply to seeds, transplant roots, or soil.
The science on inoculation is genuinely mixed, and I want to be honest about that.
Where inoculation helps most: Severely degraded soils. New construction sites where topsoil was removed. Container gardens using sterile potting mix. Land previously used for intensive conventional agriculture. In these situations, native mycorrhizal communities may be absent or severely depleted, and inoculation can jump-start the network.
Where inoculation may be unnecessary: Gardens with established perennials and minimal disturbance already likely have functional mycorrhizal networks. Adding inoculant may not improve on what’s already there. Some research shows native, locally-adapted fungi outcompete commercial strains.
What we don’t know: Whether commercial strains persist long-term. Whether they integrate with or displace native fungi. Whether the species in commercial products are optimal for your specific conditions and plants. The research is ongoing.
My recommendation: If you’re starting from severely degraded soil (new construction, longtime conventional lawn), inoculation makes sense. Use products that contain multiple species of both endo- and ecto-mycorrhizal fungi. Apply directly to roots at transplanting for best colonization. For established gardens with healthy soil, prioritize stopping damage over adding products. Let native networks recover.
Add Carbon, Not Fertility
Mycorrhizal fungi are fueled by carbon from plants. But they also benefit from carbon in soil—particularly fungal-friendly forms like woody mulch and ramial wood chips (chips from branches under 3 inches diameter).
The contrast with fertilizer is important: Fertilizer feeds plants directly, bypassing the mycorrhizal partnership. Carbon feeds soil biology, including the fungi themselves. One approach weakens the network; the other strengthens it.
Arborist wood chips, applied as mulch 3-4 inches deep, are one of the best things you can do for mycorrhizal networks. They provide carbon, maintain soil moisture, moderate temperature, and create fungal-friendly conditions at the soil surface. Fungal hyphae visibly colonize the mulch layer over time—you can see it as white threads when you pull back the chips.
For Renters and Container Gardeners
Everything above assumes you have ground to work with. But 36% of American households rent, and many more garden primarily in containers. Does any of this apply?
Yes—with modifications.
Container gardens: Sterile potting mixes contain no mycorrhizal fungi. If you want the network, you must inoculate. Commercial inoculants work well here—this is actually their ideal use case. Apply when potting and maintain living roots year-round (don’t dump and refill containers annually; instead, top-dress and maintain perennials or overwintered crops). Avoid excessive fertilization, especially synthetic slow-release types with phosphorus.
Community gardens: You can’t control neighboring plots, but you can build networks within your own. The benefits are real even at small scale. Consider adding perennial elements (a fruit bush, permanent herb patch) that maintain year-round mycorrhizal hosts while you rotate annuals around them.
Rental yards: You may not be able to stop a landlord from chemical lawn treatments, but you can build network refugia in beds you control. Even a small untreated area maintains mycorrhizal communities that can recolonize larger areas later. Document what you’re doing—you might negotiate with future landlords based on demonstrated results.
The Bigger Picture: Why Individual Gardeners Matter
I want to end with some perspective.
Mycorrhizal networks don’t stop at property lines. Your yard connects to your neighbor’s yard connects to the park down the street connects to the remnant woodlot at the edge of the suburb. In undeveloped landscapes, these networks extend for miles.
Urbanization and conventional land management fragment these networks. Every tilled lawn, every over-fertilized bed, every hardscaped yard is a break in the system. Over time, the connected whole becomes disconnected islands.
When you stop destroying your mycorrhizal network, you’re not just helping your tomatoes. You’re maintaining a node in a larger system. Your garden becomes a refuge—a piece of functional ecosystem that other fragments can eventually reconnect to.
This isn’t a solution to climate change or biodiversity collapse. Those require systemic change beyond individual action. But it’s not nothing. It’s one way we can, on the land we actually control, create conditions for recovery rather than continued degradation.
The fungi are still there, in most soils. They’re waiting for conditions that allow them to rebuild. You can create those conditions. The network wants to exist.
Let it.
What to Do This Week
Order a soil test that includes phosphorus levels (state extension service or private lab, $15-30)
Stop tilling any bed you don’t absolutely have to till
Check your fertilizer for phosphorus content—that middle N-P-K number
Contact an arborist about free wood chips (ChipDrop.in or call local tree services)
Plan a cover crop for any beds that would otherwise go bare this winter
If starting new beds or containers: source a mycorrhizal inoculant containing multiple species
Further Reading
Finding the Mother Tree by Suzanne Simard — The accessible book-length treatment of Dr. Simard’s research on forest networks.
Mycelium Running by Paul Stamets — Broader look at fungi in ecosystems, including practical applications.
Society for the Protection of Underground Networks (SPUN) at spun.earth — Research organization mapping global fungal networks; excellent resources section.
— Mike Ruggiero
Ruggiero Sustainable Solutions
Lehigh Valley, Pennsylvania


